Struggling with dry, chapped lips? These are the common causes (and how to avoid them)
If your lips seem to have a mind of their own and switch from super smooth to dry and cracked in what seems like hours, it's worth knowing there are a few key causes of dry lips – as well as a couple of bad habits that exacerbate them, which the majority of us are guilty of doing on a daily basis.
“One of the main differences between the skin on our lips and the rest of the body is that it is much thinner, typically consisting of 3-5 layers in total compared to as many as 16 on the face,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. "Our lips also lack the upper layer of epidermis, known as the stratum corneum, which serves a protective function, prevents dehydration and combats UV radiation.
“Another key difference is that our lips do not contain the glands found elsewhere on our skin," she continues. "They are therefore more likely to get dry and chapped as they don’t have the same natural oils to keep them soft and smooth. Cold, harsh temperatures, reduction in humidity due to central heating and repeated licking to moisten our lips can all contribute to drying them out.”
What causes chapped lips?
As well as the most common cause of chapped lips, which is dehydration, friction from talking, eating, drinking and facial expressions can contribute to skin damage and chapping, especially if they’re already vulnerable.
Do chapped lips mean you have an infection?
No, but if you have chapped lips it could increase your chances of getting an infection. This is because when the skin is cracked or broken it allows bacteria to enter the lower layers which can lead to an infection.
Why do chapped lips appear out of nowhere?
It’s the million dollar question and while it feels like they’ve all of a sudden become chapped and sore, there is usually a trigger. “Licking your lips can very quickly lead to dry and dehydrated lips,” says Rupert Kingston, MUA and co-founder of delilah. “While it may seem like a natural way to moisten your lips it can in fact make them drier as saliva evaporates pulling the moisture content from the lips. Saliva also contains digestive enzymes which can be very harsh on the delicate skin.”
Exposure to the elements is another trigger as whether it’s a change or drop in temperature, air conditioning, UV rays – they can all lead to chapping and dryness.
Vitamin deficiency could also be to blame and B2 (found in eggs and lean meat) is especially important as it’s essential for cell function and in turn, healthy lips. Zinc and iron deficiency have also been linked to dry lips, so load up on your greens to help keep things balanced.
You may want to rule out a medical condition too. “If your symptoms aren’t improving with lots of lip moisturiser, you may have something like eczema and should seek advice from a GP or dermatologist about the appropriateness of prescriptions and patch tests,” Dr Kluk tells us. Dry lips, particularly around the corners of the mouth can also be an indicator that your body is producing too much yeast and that you have an infection. If you have been suffering for a while, you might need to visit your GP in case you need a course of antibiotics to clear things up.
What are the best ingredients for healing chapped lips?
Ideally you want to think about prevention not the cure but if you do need an SOS, look for a product that’s rich in both oil and water to hydrate and moisturise, continues Rupert. “Emollient based products or those containing fatty acids enriched with skin healing ingredients are a good idea. Things like argan oil, castor seed oil, shea butter and jojoba oil.’
Are there any ingredients you should avoid?
Petrochemical based products like petroleum jelly may provide a temporary barrier on the lips but while short term they feel ok, they don’t actually help speed up the healing process as they don’t actively moisturise or hydrate the lips.
Fragranced lip balm should also be a watch out. “If your lips are very sore or sensitive, avoid heavily flavoured or fragranced products as this may sometimes aggravate things further,” Dr Kluk confirms. You may even have an allergy to the lip products you're using and she notes that using scrubs, soaps, or foaming cleansers could also be behind excessive dryness on the lips.
Can you use a lip scrub on chapped lips?
Over exfoliating or scrubbing can lead to more damage in the same way it would on your skin but once lips are no longer sore and on the road to recovery, using a gentle lip scrub or polish can help remove the remnants of flaky, dry skin.
Why won’t my chapped lips heal?
This could be down to a vicious cycle and subconscious habits like licking your lips because they feel dry. If you can’t avoid the external elements, that won’t help either so you need to make sure you have a plan of action in place like using lip balms with SPF and keeping hydrated by guzzling down as much water as you can. If you’re still struggling, Rupert suggests looking at what else you’re eating or using too as it could be something else that’s causing irritation, inflammation and sensitivity.