Everything You Need to Know About Subtle Lip Filler

A close-up photo of lips.
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If fuller, more voluptuous lips sit high on your beauty wish list, lucky for you, you can have them. It's quick and easy to transform thin lips into a plump pucker with a few injections of the appropriate lip filler. So, how do you get them and avoid the dreaded duck lip? It's easier than you think. Choosing an injector whose aesthetic matches yours is a starting point. From there, it's all about using the right lip filler and their injecting technique. Below, three experts share everything you need to know about how to get subtle-looking lips.

Meet the expert

  • Daniel Belkin, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist who is fellowship-trained in Mohs micrographic surgery.
  • Lyle Leipziger, MD, is a board-certified plastic surgeon in Manhattan and Long Island.
  • Howard Sobel, MD is a board-certified dermatologist and clinical attending dermatological surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital.

Most people who opt for lip filler want it to look natural and subtle as if they had nothing done. Injecting the lips and perioral area with hyaluronic acid fillers (a synthetic version of the hydrating molecule naturally found in the skin and joints) is a quick and easy way to add moisture, shape, and enhancement to the lips, according to Dr. Belkin. Hyaluronic acid-based lip fillers can imperceptibly enhance the shape and outline of the lips, eliminate any visible asymmetries, and add natural fullness so that your favorite lip oil looks that much better.

Beyond the physical improvements that subtle lip filler provides, there's an emotional component, too. Improved self-confidence comes with enhanced lips that look natural and complementary to the face.

Choosing the Right Lip Filler

With so many types of fillers and brands available, it can be confusing to choose the right one. Each injectable filler has structural differences and a unique molecular weight; some, like biostimulatory fillers, are inappropriate for use in the lips. It's only safe to inject hyaluronic acid into the lips. "It is also important for the treating physician to understand each product's characteristics to make appropriate decisions," Dr. Leipziger says. "I individualize the type of filler used based on the patient's lip anatomy and desired goals. The most natural look is not always based on the filler but more on proper injection techniques."

Typically, Dr. Belkin injects the lips with either Restylane or Restylane Kysse, a blended version of Restylane he makes in his office, Vollure, or Belotero: "Restylane is a great go-to because it provides some structure and typically stays where I place it, so it should not migrate. Kysse is similar but made specifically for lips, so it is a little softer. Our blended Restylane is extremely light and subtle, and I use it for the most conservative enhancement. For patients who are a little older, I like Belotero because it gives nice hydration without projection and is great for fine lines and wrinkling."

When in doubt, he recommends asking your injector for a softer product, which tends to be more aesthetically forgiving than a firmer one.

Consultation and Preparation

The key to subtle lip filler is choosing your injector wisely and ensuring they can achieve your desired results. During your consultation, you'll be able to communicate with them what you expect your lips to look like and what you don't want them to look like. A consultation is a time to be honest and transparent with your dermatologist or plastic surgeon about what treatments or injections you have done to your lips before and what you liked or didn't like about the results. "It's also important to discuss any specific dissatisfactions, such as asymmetry," Dr. Belkin adds. "I try not to encourage my patients from selecting a lip from a menu of public figures because, ultimately, the best results come from leaning into the patient's natural shape and enhancing what is already beautiful for them."

In the days leading up to your lip filler appointment, there is little to do to prep the lips other than avoiding taking NSAIDs like Advil, multivitamins, and other supplements for about one week before to minimize bruising. Since there will likely be swelling or bruising after the injections, it's best to schedule the treatment when it works for your schedule.

The Procedure Step-by-Step

Before taking a syringe to his patient's lips, Dr. Belkin takes before photos. "We discuss again the goals of the procedure. If it is someone's first visit, my assistant will write recommendations with associated costs, so there are no surprises at the end." Next, a nurse or doctor's assistant will clean the lips and surrounding areas and apply topical numbing cream to the lips (it stays on for about 30 minutes). Some doctors also ice the lips to numb the lips further and limit bruising and swelling, while others use vibrating tools to distract from discomfort.

Then, it's time for the actual injections, which take about 10 to 15 minutes. A small needle meticulously injects the filler of choice into the lips, which feels like a pinch, sometimes mixed with a bit of burning or pressure. The lips are massaged, and, as a last step, Dr. Leipziger says the injecting physician should carefully examine lip filler placement to ensure no asymmetries exist.

"Unfortunately, we've all seen the results of overdone filler in the media and on the street," Dr. Belkin says. To prevent this, he recommends avoiding techniques that overtreat the cutaneous upper lip (the skin portion of the lip) or the vermilion border (the line between the skin and the pink lip part). And injecting just the right amount of filler is crucial in creating a natural, subtle look. Dr. Leipziger shares that the amount of lip filler to inject varies on a patient's anatomy, lip shape, and desired look. "Not all lips are created equal. A thinner lip may need more filler compared to a thicker, fuller lip, which may require a small enhancement. Too much filler will result in unnatural and overdone lips, so it's important to have an artistic sense to create a natural look."

Since the goal of subtle lip filler is lips that look natural, some doctors, such as Dr. Sobel, prefer to inject a little at a time rather than injecting the lips with all the filler in a single syringe at once, even if that means a couple of appointments to get the correct result.

Recovery and Aftercare

Immediately after lip filler, your lips will look full, plump, and even larger, possibly with some tenderness, than you anticipated, and you should ice them for the next few hours to help reduce swelling. Dr. Belkin says the lips will remain swollen for a few days following lip injections, steadily decreasing over the next week. "I also give oral arnica to patients who know they frequently bruise. Bruising can be treated with laser the next day (at no charge) to speed up recovery if needed."

To decrease swelling, don't work out for the first 24 hours. You'll also want to avoid salty foods, which can increase fluid retention and contribute to swelling and dental appointments for one week.

Expected Results

Lip fillers provide long-lasting results, but they're far from permanent. On average, you can retain the added fullness and enhanced shape for six to 12 months. "For some people, depending on how dramatic their expression is and their biological makeup, lip filler can last a little less or a little longer," Dr. Sobel adds. Another factor that makes some fillers have more staying power than others is their cross-linking. "Cross-linking prevents hyaluronic acid in the filler from being rapidly broken down," Dr. Belkin says. "Vollure is the longest-lasting filler because of the way it is cross-linked. It uses Vycross technology, a method proprietary to Allergan and used for some of their Juvéderm fillers."

How to Maintain Your New Lips

To maintain the results of subtle lip filler, you'll want to re-treat the lips frequently and use small doses of filler. "This way, we are preserving and building up the lips little by little and not waiting for each treatment to wear off fully," Dr. Belkin shares. "After a few such sessions, I find that the results can last longer and longer, partially due to collagen stimulation, which hyaluronic acid fillers have been shown to do."

Risks to Know About

Like all elective aesthetic treatments, there are always potential risks to be aware of. Dr. Belkin explains that vascular occlusions can result from filler being placed accidentally into an artery and blocking the blood supply to the lip or surrounding skin. "It's very uncommon, but it happens, so I recommend seeing a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon for lip filler. Your injector should be familiar with facial anatomy to avoid this complication and experienced enough to recognize it if it happens." There's also the potential for asymmetry, injection site infection, nodules, and filler migration. Dr. Sobel says injecting the lips improperly can cause them to appear too plump, unnatural, bumpy, uneven, or gritty. "It is always best to use small increments at a time to avoid these situations."

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Is it possible to get subtle lip filler?

    Yes, and it's not impossible either. Dr. Belkin says the dosing, technique, and specific product injected into the lips impact the result. "A small amount of soft filler placed in areas where the lips should naturally have volume can yield extremely subtle and beautiful results."

  • What is the most natural-looking lip filler?

    Dr. Sobel likes to use the new Redensity filler, Restylane Kysse, Refyne, or Belotero to create a natural-looking lip. "These products are thin, so they spread easily through the outline of the lips without making them feel hard or look bulky and unnatural. Always remember that the bottom lip should be twice the size of your top lip and not the other way around."

  • How long does subtle lip filler last?

    Subtle lip filler lasts, on average, six months or longer. "Some companies may say that their filler lasts a year," Dr. Sobel adds. "To keep the subtle, natural-looking results and maintain a consistent look, you may want to top up your filler every four to six months. This will keep the lips at a consistent and balanced volume."

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