How to Overline Lips to Make Them Look Fuller

All you need is a lip pencil to score a plumper pout. Our celebrity makeup experts share other simple lip-plumping tactics, too.

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In the quest for larger, fuller-looking lips, injectable lip fillers and topical plumping products aren’t your only options. Knowing how to overline lips can create the appearance of a more voluminous pout—a beauty optical illusion of sorts—in minutes with no appointments, injections, or expensive skin-pumping products.

Obviously, the effect of overlining is temporary and your lips won’t actually change size, but for a fast fix or special event, this option is quick and painless. We tapped celebrity makeup artists to share the right way to overline your lips, as well as other makeup-centric, pout-plumping hacks.

  • Todd Harris is a celebrity makeup artist, groomer, and skincare expert known for a natural aesthetic that exudes effortless beauty. He is the co-founder and executive director of Trans Beauty Clinic.
  • Neil Scibelli is one of New York City's leading fashion and celebrity makeup artists.

What You'll Need

Materials

  • Lip liner

Instructions

How to Overline Lips to Make Them Look Fuller

“The idea of creating a fuller or more even pout using lip liner is something that makeup artists have been doing for decades,” explains Harris. Scibelli adds that it gives the illusion of larger lips because it accentuates the outline of the lip shape. Here's the right way to do it.

  1. Pick the Right Color Lip Liner

    If you’re wearing a bold-shaded lipstick like red, berry, or magenta, Scibelli advises choosing a lip liner that matches the lipstick.

    If your lipstick is a nude hue, you can match it exactly or go one to three shades deeper or darker. Any darker than that can quickly veer into garish territory. “Overlining always looks the most natural with nudes,” says Harris.

  2. Create a Line

    Making sure your lip liner is nice and sharp—precision is key here—create a line just slightly over the outermost edge of your natural lip line, right above where the colored part of the lip starts.

    Creating a line at just the right point ensures you’ll achieve that desired fullness, Scibelli explains, while still looking believable. He suggests lining your top lip in two halves:

    • Start from the outer corner of one side and draw the line up to the middle.
    • Repeat on the other side, so the lines meet at the point of the cupid’s bow.
  3. Blend with a Lip Brush

    “Once you’ve created that outside line, take a lip brush and blend the liner ever-so-slightly downward, onto your lips, leaving the outer edge of it visible,” Harris advises. This helps make everything look seamless, while still creating the illusion of a shadow on the lips that makes them look plumper, he explains.

    Scibelli says you don’t have to overline your entire mouth. You can overline just at the cupid’s bow or just the lower lip, customizing the technique to your desired effect and lip shape.

    One brand to try is Sephora Collection PRO Lip Brush #85 ($16, sephora.com). 

  4. Follow With Lipstick

    Once you’re done lining, follow with the lipstick of your choice and you’re good to go.

Lip Liner Alternatives for Plumper Lips

Not a fan of lip liner? Keep in mind that hydrated lips are always going to look plumper than dry ones, notes Scibelli. To that point, here are a couple of lip-hydrating tactics:

  • Buffing off dead skin with a lip scrub and then adding a few layers of an extra-hydrating balm makes your pout appear fuller. Two of our favorites are Tree Hut Sugarlips Lip Scrub ($6; ulta.com) and Uncommon Beauty Enhanced Mango Lip Balm ($15; uncommonjames.com).
  • After applying lipstick, Harris suggests dabbing clear gloss just on the center of your top and bottom lips. This reflects light at the point where your lips naturally stick out the most, making them look larger. We like Tinted Unity Balm Gloss ($20, livetinted.com).

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